Brilliant Canadian Designers

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canada, canadian designers, canadian fashion, couture, fashion

I would love to highlight some talent from my home, Canada, seeing as Canadian designers work extremely hard and are very talented – not always gaining enough recognition for their work in the fashion industry. Being a fashion designer in Canada is extremely difficult because Canada is not exactly a well-known place for fashion. But thanks to many talented people, Canada is definitely gaining more recognition for its fashion industry.

Lucian Matis is a Toronto-based fashion designer with a tremendous amount of talent. His designs are stunning and dramatic in their flawlessly tailored execution. Yet his designs are always very detail-oriented. His extreme attention to detail and perfect construction sets him apart from other designers. Here is an assortment of photographs from his ad campaign and recent runway show.

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Another brilliant Canadian designer is Sunny Fong of VAWK. He is brilliant in his artistry. The construction of his garments is always flawless and the detailed work involved with them is impeccable. He has an effortless feminine aesthetic that is always original and modern. He brings an inventive and chic luxury sensibility to Canadian fashion like no other. Here is an assortment of my all-time favourite clothing from VAWK.

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Greta Constantine, made up of the ingenious duo Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong, is one of few labels that has been able to put Canadian fashion on the map – definitely not an easy task. They have a unique avant-garde style of design that incorporates masterfully tailored silhouettes and stunning details. Their collections always have an original point of view and story to tell. They treat each garment like a sculptural work of art, as it should be. Here are some of my favourite ensembles from Greta Constantine.

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Carlie Wong is yet another ingenious Canadian fashion designer. Her designs are classic and possess a wonderful artistry to the way they are executed. Her dresses have a beautiful couture-like construction to them and incorporate stunning embroidery. Her couture-like designs defy traditional ideas of Canadian fashion and are not as casual or marketable as the majority of Canadian fashion – which is what I love about her. Here are some of my favourite ensembles from her Spring 2013 Bridal and Couture Collection.

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Amanda Lew Kee has a unique sensibility – she incorporates ready-to-wear with an artistic execution of original prints and designs. Her designs are wearable, but entirely original and modern. They are visually balanced, executed like a work of art – taking colour, shape, and texture into consideration and laying them out in perfect harmony with one another. Here are some of my favourite looks from her.

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I apologize for not being able to include more designers. I hope this gives you a broader perspective on Canadian fashion designers and how talented they must be in order to be successful.

Structured Minimalism at Dior

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2013, couture, dior, fashion, raf simons, ready to wear, spring

We must all thank Raf Simons for continuing to maintain Dior’s reputation as one of the top fashion houses in the world. I love how he stays true to the classic feminine 50s silhouette that established Dior as a coveted and respected brand, but he puts his own twist on it to pull it into the twenty-first century – a more minimalistic and architectural version in comparison to their silhouette during the golden age of haute couture.

Ensemble No. 28. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This dress is cut so beautifully. Raf has stripped away the piles of tulle from the 50s silhouette and reinvented it – transforming it into a modern-day silhouette, but still retaining the original feeling and structure – just a lot lighter. I never thought that I would want anyone to modernize the typical 50s dress probably using 100 yards of tulle – but this is exquisite and, let’s face it, fashion always needs to move forward and think in the present. This is such a modernized dress and I cannot believe how much I love it… Raf Simons, you are a genius.

Ensemble No. 45. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

I adore the way that this tulle falls so effortlessly like this sculptural masterpiece. What a perfect example of how construction of a garment can do wonders even, when working with less fabric. Raf proves how you can use less fabric and it can look even better than the dress using 100 yards of fabric (which would also be ridiculously heavy). That’s the brilliancy of perfect construction.

Ensemble No. 50. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

Even though this is so simplistic, I love it. This fabric has the classic floral element to it, yet it is in this bizarre metallic colour that makes it so unique and modern. The silhouette is loose and effortless – so wearable yet stunning.

Sporty Architectural Looks at Hussein Chalayan

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couture, fashion, hussein chalayan, ready to wear, spring

Hussein Chalayan’s collection was minimalistic, but had a sculptural feel to the design that made the clothes feel very unique. The fabrics were somewhat odd and used in ways that you would not typically associate with that fabric – that added an element of modernity and inventiveness to the collection.

Ensemble No. 17. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This dress is so beautifully constructed and I cannot get over the fact that it is made of a sporty mesh-type fabric that I would never associate with this type of a look. I love it when designers can do something remarkable with a fabric that you would never think of using. Chalayan is so ahead of his time with this dress.

Ensemble No. 35. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

I love this photographic collage print – it looks so beautiful in this outfit. It has such a lovely effortless silhouette that is so modern and refreshingly original.

Ensemble No. 38. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

Once again the material is so unbelievable. I cannot believe that Hussein Chalayan is convincing me that thick shiny transparent plastic is beautiful and can be made into a sculptural work of art such as this top.

Ensemble No. 41. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This is a work of art. It floats iridescently across the floor, draped across the model in perfect harmony with the silhouette of the female form.

Ensemble No. 44 Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This dress uses such interesting patterns and textures – so minimalistic, clean, and modern. Yet it has an sort of movement to it within the textile – like marble or electric currents or tree branches in stark black and white.

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Glamorous 50s-Inspired Silhouettes at Carven

Tags

carven, couture, fashion, spring

Carven’s Spring 2013 collection combined modern cut-outs with 50s silhouettes and Toile de Jouy prints – wearable and light but still beautifully executed and tailored. Here are my favourite looks:

Ensemble No. 14. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

I adore this dress – the silhouette is reminiscent of the 50s but it was a weightlessness to it that flows nicely and is simplistic and easily wearable. The silhouette is transformed into a modern-day look with an altered and more geometric style sweetheart neckline and an interestingly shaped cut-out.

Ensemble No. 24. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

I question whether the cut-out was needed in this particular dress – it looks slightly out of place and is somewhat of a visually puzzling detail. However, the silhouette with the curved panels at the bottom adding volume is an interesting modern detail. And I love the Toile de Jouy print – it is so classic and I love to see something so old revived into something fresh and new.

Ensemble No. 26. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This all red ensemble works somehow and I think that the way these different shades of red were put together is completely ingenious. Only when you examine it for a longer period of time do you realize that the entire outfit is monochromatic and that it is done in such a visually balanced way that it does not strike you as anything out of the ordinary at first glance. I have never liked red very much, but this outfit is pretty convincing.

Ensemble No. 36. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This is how you do a metallic fabric – it doesn’t look odd or overly synthetic and eye-catching, but it has a classy and glamorous almost medieval look to it. The cut-outs are reminiscent of stained glass and the sculpted aesthetic of this dress is stunning.

Romantic Elegance at Bottega Veneta

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bottega veneta, couture, fashion, spring

This season’s collection is a slightly more understated look, with an artsy retro vibe. I think it was executed beautifully, all wearable looks that are still unique in their design aesthetic.

Ensemble No. 10. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This look is so minimalistic that I was surprised by how immediately I was drawn to it. I love the variation of the classic button-up shirt by making the sleeves wide and elbow-length, hanging down beautifully from the structured silhouette of the shoulders. The embellishments on top are a lovely finishing touch which do not distract, but rather add, to the effectiveness of the silhouette.

Ensemble No. 20. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

I adore whatever material these strips are made of – they are used so beautifully. This is such a simplistic but ingenious design. It has a free sort of fluidity to it that has an interesting movement to it but also possesses the structure to make it a flattering and balanced silhouette.

Ensemble No. 28. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This is such a lovely and sophisticated way to do cut-outs. The floral theme is executed beautifully and the different layers of fabrics and appliqués overlap together in a very visually interesting way. This dress has an creative and artsy vibe to it that takes the pretentious and overly glamorous feeling out of cut-outs, certainly not an easy thing to do.

Geometric Brilliance at Balenciaga

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balenciaga, fashion, nicolas ghesquière, ready to wear, spring

Balenciaga’s Spring 2013 ready-to-wear collection incorporated some interesting new silhouettes and was definitely a detailed exploration of geometry, architecture, and design in fashion. This is a flawless example of a collection with garments relying solely on their construction and overall shape to contribute to the aesthetic rather than prints or embellishments.

Ensemble No. 3. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

What an interesting way to reinvent the peplum. The cut of the dress is beautiful and the ruffles in the sleeves and the peplum are brilliantly designed – so simplistic yet innovative. This is a garment that can hold on its own without any embellishments, prints, or any colour.

Ensemble No. 8. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

Nicolas Ghesquière did a fabulous job of reinventing the suit – it looks clean-cut and tailored to perfection, skimming the body effortlessly. The construction feels modern and completely new. And making the classic suit and pants feel new is certainly not an easy thing to do.

Ensemble No. 11. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This ensemble cannot be referred to as a top and a skirt. This is a work of art – a masterpiece in the art of tailoring and construction. The way the skirt is done is so interesting – it is so difficult to execute all those cut-outs and still have the skirt retain a structured and flattering shape to it.

 

Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 RTW

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alexander mcqueen, couture, fashion, ready to wear, spring

The Spring 2013 collection for Alexander McQueen explored interesting and innovative new silhouettes and colours with a bee theme. Sarah Burton explored colours and textures associated with bees and still kept the hourglass McQueen silhouette, fitting in nicely among a nature-related theme which Sarah has explored before.

Ensemble No.1. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

The way in which the many mesh fabrics and mesh-type patterns were explored allows the theme to be apparent but not feel to kitschy or overly obvious. I love the inclusion of the tortoiseshell pattern – it definitely has a bee-related colours to it that make it a candidate for a pattern that evokes the theme without being too blatantly thematic.

Ensemble No. 13. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This ensemble incorporates the perfect balance of theme while sticking to the McQueen silhouette and aesthetic. I love the metal corset-like piece that sits over the jacket – it adds the needed structure to the silhouette while incorporating a distorted grid graphic that is evocative of the feelings associated with a hive of bees.

Ensemble No. 27. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

The extreme subtlety of the honeycomb pattern that is incorporated into this dress is so brilliant. The dress has a very strong and powerful but feminine aesthetic.

Ensemble No. 28. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

I love the way that the rigid pattern of the honeycomb silhouette is made flowing and effortless with the inclusion of that pattern on the tulle cascading from the bodice. The silhouette of a hive is also incorporated in a very visually interesting way through the outer boning on the dress.

 

Au Revoir Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear Part II

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couture, fall, ready to wear

I’ve been so busy lately that I haven’t had much time to finish my collage of favourite ready-to-wear ensembles of Fall 2012, but here it is now. I think the second half of the alphabet was way better for this season. So here are my favourites:

(From top left – designer-ensemble number): Jil Sander-01-08-13-20-37, J.Mendel-32, Jonathan Saunders-12-20, J.W. Anderson-13, Lanvin-01-04-29-36, Louis Vuitton-09-31, Maison Martin Margiela-39-42, Marchesa-02-07-12-14-17. All images extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

(From top left – designer-ensemble number): Marchesa-32, Mary Katranzou-0-09-23, Matthew Williamson-12-32, Miucci Prada-16, Oscar de la Renta-22-45-50, Prabal Gurung-29, Prada-12-22, Rodarte-01-03, Stella McCartney-20, Valentino-03-12-22-26-42-45. All images extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

 

Au Revoir Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear (Part I)

Tags

couture, fall, fashion, ready to wear

So I know I haven’t been blogging in forever. School’s started (part of the reason) and I’ve been working on this huge collage to summarize my favourite looks for Fall 2012 RTW so I can move on to the exciting looks of Spring 2013 RTW. Since there is so much I found noteworthy, I’ll have to post the collage in parts. So here it is… Let me know which ones are your favourite!

(From top left – designer-ensemble number): Céline-14, Chanel-66, Christian Dior-47-51-54-56, Christopher Kane-30, Comme des Garçons-22-33-39, Creatures of the Wind-07-11-17, David Koma-16-19, Derek Lam-14, Diane von Furstenberg-28, DKNY-26, Dolce & Gabbana-07-20-36-46-59. All images extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

(From top left – designer-ensemble number): Dries van Noten-05-23-24-54, Emilio Pucci-22, Erdem-11-16-19-32, Etro-14-34-40-43, Giambattista Valli-23-27-31-37, Gorgio Armani-48-56, Givenchy-28, Gucci-44, Haider Ackerman-30, Hermès-41, Hussein Chalayan-01-49-55, J.Mendel-16. All images extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

 

Carven Fall RTW

Tags

carven, fall, fashion, ready to wear

This collection was based off of inspiration from 16th and 17th century art – the idea of the Carven girl walking into the museum and pulling inspiration for her clothing from the paintings. I think it was a brilliant collection that made a statement that Carven deserves to be in the spotlight as a major luxury brand. Guillaume Henry certainly did a phenomenal job in getting our attention – I think Carven will continue to grow and branch out under his direction. Here are my favourite ensembles:

Ensemble No. 2. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This print is just so gorgeous – I never though paisley prints could look so high-end and couture-like. I love the way the fabric is very stiff and sculpted – but it looks extremely wearable and comfortable despite this (two aspects that are difficult to merge). This may not be very couture-like in the essence that it is so minimalistic, but I think the pattern and tailoring of this dress deserves some recognition.

Ensemble No. 10. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

The cut-outs in this dress are beautiful. It reminds me of a stained glass pattern in an ornate cathedral. The art theme is definitely translating well into these dresses. I love the colour – it’s a lovely deep sage that’s unique and reminiscent of Fall, but it’s not too overly seasonal – it doesn’t scream “Fall” – no one wants a colour palette that is strictly seasonal anymore.

Ensemble No. 26. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

I love this eclectic mixture of prints – I would have never guessed that this combination of prints would looks so gorgeous together. I love the way the skirts are tailored in a clean, structural way so that they retain an interesting and sculptural shape that glides over the hips beautifully. Again, I see a resemblance to stained glass patterns on the sleeve of her shirt.

Ensemble No. 37. Extracted from http://www.vogue.com.

This cut-out dress is just exquisite – and I love how it builds upon the cathedral-esque cut-outs in ensemble no. 10. I never knew you could have a dress with this many cut-outs that still retains such a lovely shape. Cut-outs are no longer overly sexy or tacky – they fit into the couture-worthy level of elegant fine detail.